Why I Started Walking
After months of feeling stuck in my routine back home, I decided to tackle the 88-temple pilgrimage around Shikoku. The 1,200-kilometer journey seemed impossible at first, but I was drawn to the idea of walking in the footsteps of Kobo Daishi, the monk who founded this sacred route over a thousand years ago.
The First Steps in Tokushima
My pilgrimage began at Ryozenji Temple, where I bought my white pilgrim vest and walking stick. The early days were brutal—my feet blistered within hours, and the mountain passes of Tokushima tested every muscle I didn’t know I had.
Finding Rhythm in Kochi
By the time I reached Kochi Prefecture, something shifted. The endless Pacific coastline became meditative rather than monotonous, and I found myself walking 30 kilometers without even noticing.
Temple Lodgings and Stranger Kindness
The o-settai culture—where locals offer free gifts to pilgrims—surprised me constantly. One elderly woman ran after me with homemade onigiri, while temple priests shared stories over vegetarian dinners that made me feel part of something ancient and ongoing.
Coming Full Circle
Completing the circuit back at Temple 1 after 45 days, I understood why people say the pilgrimage changes you. It wasn’t about reaching enlightenment but about learning to keep walking, one step at a time, even when the path ahead seems endless.
